I stood up and went down to the kitchen

preparing some sweet (megasweet) american pancakes with jelly and maple sirup. What a breakfast, I hope such things will bring me a little "Ranze" in the 6 months:-)

After breakfast I went down to the beach, checkin the waves for my first surfin atempts which should follow just a few hours later. I walked around in my neighbourhood, trying to find a big supermarket which is a bit cheaper than my mexican-bastards-one right now, but I didn't find anything except houndrets of surf, dope and trash stores.

2pm: Time to hit the water on a surfboard!!! I caught Paul (the guy from "Schwobaland") and went with him to the surfboard-rental. 10$ for an hour, and as you see you get a complete clean and not over-waxed one for that;-) But again I'd ask Georg back home: "Who cares?". So we went down to the water, took our wetsuits (my one could probably be more than 700 years old, but the colors are still up-to-date:-) and joined about 20 other surfers at a spot, not bigger than 30 meters. So as you might already have recognized, 20 on 30m, yes, it feels a bit like war, but you've always got enough space if you're a fox like me(or Megan!!!:-)). So there she was, my beautiful piling up, first surf-wave of my whole life! Now it counts, will I suck, or will I make it?! I made it!!! First atempt and I stood on my surfboard for about 4 seconds! Life could end now... but there are some other ones to be catched i thought! And they have been there. But you gotta wait and wait and wait.... and if you finally got one, the "coool" surfer dude beside you catches it first, fuck! But I caught some real good ones, especially my last one. Me and the guy from Wisconsin beside me catched it at the same time, so no one had the first-served-right and we both went in it...and both had a sweet ride, watching each other, smiling and diving back to the water again. My first day of surfing - hell yeah!

So we went back to the hostel, showering for a bit, catching something to eat and straight after that I went down to the beach again! It's such a beautiful one - huge, clean and grinded sand as hell. After the last shafts of sunlight have left me, I went back to hostel again and cooked pasta with tomato-sauce! And here I am, writing to you! Later I might go to the Santa Monica Pier and check it out, looks perfect on pictures!

I'll let you know about my eve tomorrow...sleep tight and snore as hell Germany!!!

P.S. What a ride again!